.JPG) |
| Trekking up |
.JPG) |
| 72 kph going down |
.JPG) |
| Trekking up from the bottom |
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| We survived! |
Thursday, February 28, 2013
Sandboarding in the Namib...
'Nuf Said... (In the Namib Desert 2/24/2013)
Wednesday, February 27, 2013
Land is in Art
I used to make fun of my brother Noel and his obsession with land in his art, but not anymore. Two weeks ago, I went to a wonderful exhibition af the National Art Gallery of Namibia called "Legacies of a Colonial Town." The exhibition was built into a faux township shack and chronicled the life of Windhoek from a colonial German city through the South Africa occupation from 1920 to 1990 and then as the independent capital of the Namibian Nation. 2 things stuck out at me, well 3 if you count the mosquitos. :)
1. Windhoek was originally founded by the local tribes in 1840 ish with help from some missionaries. The locals liked the area around Windhoek because it has fresh water bubbling up from the //Ae //Gams below the city. Pretty much below where I am right now. Also, the city is 1,700 meters high so there are NO mosquitos. Let me say that again, there are NO MOSQUITOS. As someone who has had Malaria multiple times, that's nothing to joke about. So, the local Namibians recognized a good piece of land, the Germans took notice and it's been the art of the Politic every since.
2. A sacred space is well hidden in downtown Windhoek. The above picture is pretty much the center of Windhoek. That church is a Lutheran church, built in 1910 by the Germans. I do want to go to service there because it's beautiful AND in German. But I digress. The big 'golden tooth' you see is situated on perhaps the most hotly contested part of Windhoek. Just by the two palm trees in the right part of the picture there is a small building (well small in comparison to the 40 meter tall North Korean beheamouth) called the Alte Feste/Old Fortress. It was the first building built in Windhoek as the German Administrative center. During the wars of 1904-1908, the Germans had a concentration camp for the Herero and Nama people. Almost 8,000 people 'lived' in an area the size of the Commons in Brattleboro ie NOT very big. When the war was over, the Germans built a twice life sized equestrian memorial to all the German soldiers who died fighting the 'native rebellion.' It was built right near where many of these natives perished (mostly women and children) at the hands of the Germans. The monument stood at that place for almost 100 years. However, 2 years ago - to celebrate 20 years of independence - the monument was moved.
The German-Namibians were up in Arms because they thought it would be destroyed. It wasn't. The Namibian government knew that it was a valid piece of Namibian history. Yet now, the tallest building in Windhoek, arguably a work of art, called the Independence Museum, is built on a spot where the colonizer tried to wipe out the independence of the colonized. One thing, it's not open yet....
1. Windhoek was originally founded by the local tribes in 1840 ish with help from some missionaries. The locals liked the area around Windhoek because it has fresh water bubbling up from the //Ae //Gams below the city. Pretty much below where I am right now. Also, the city is 1,700 meters high so there are NO mosquitos. Let me say that again, there are NO MOSQUITOS. As someone who has had Malaria multiple times, that's nothing to joke about. So, the local Namibians recognized a good piece of land, the Germans took notice and it's been the art of the Politic every since.
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| Christuskirche and the Independence Museum |
2. A sacred space is well hidden in downtown Windhoek. The above picture is pretty much the center of Windhoek. That church is a Lutheran church, built in 1910 by the Germans. I do want to go to service there because it's beautiful AND in German. But I digress. The big 'golden tooth' you see is situated on perhaps the most hotly contested part of Windhoek. Just by the two palm trees in the right part of the picture there is a small building (well small in comparison to the 40 meter tall North Korean beheamouth) called the Alte Feste/Old Fortress. It was the first building built in Windhoek as the German Administrative center. During the wars of 1904-1908, the Germans had a concentration camp for the Herero and Nama people. Almost 8,000 people 'lived' in an area the size of the Commons in Brattleboro ie NOT very big. When the war was over, the Germans built a twice life sized equestrian memorial to all the German soldiers who died fighting the 'native rebellion.' It was built right near where many of these natives perished (mostly women and children) at the hands of the Germans. The monument stood at that place for almost 100 years. However, 2 years ago - to celebrate 20 years of independence - the monument was moved.
 |
| Moving the Reiterdenkmal |
3. Katutura - The Place We Do Not Wish To Settle.
There is a road in Windhoek called the Western Bypass. It was built by the Apartheid SWA regime to skirt around the city and make travel north and south in the country much easier. That was 50 plus years ago. Now, the bypass is still a bypass but it passes right through the city.
Windhoek is encircled by mountains on all but the western side and that is where the SWA government decided to move the 'dark spots' on 'white' Windhoek. They moved people from a location relatively close to the city - at least within walking distance for all the day laborers who worked in town - and put them ten kilometers out. Interestingly enough, it is right over a hill and out of sight from town. Now, Katutura is the home of the majority of musicians, artists and culture in Windhoek.
I don't think I will ever question the importance of land in Art again.
More soon.
Ian
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Two sides of a coin. (Take 2)
I had tried to write this on my iPad earlier but it didn't work. Yet for some reason, I wrote that first sentence on my laptop, now I'm on my iPad and it saved.... Oh the joys of piggy backing on any and all signals I can get!
I found a new cafe closer to my house than where I have been going. I think I'm going to give that other place a rest because of the story I'm just about to tell you.
My Internet at home is a USB stick that I buy vouchers for, punch in codes and get to use the Internet until the money runs out. I have had to severely modify my Internet use habits because the age of unlimited use with a very good bandwidth in America has spoiled me. There is no such thing as streaming, that'll eat up my credit in NO time as I found out my first week here when I wanted to finish the last episode of HUNG. It took 30 minutes to load and the credit was gone. (I can do Skype though, and voice calls through the Internet don't seem to be bad... As long as I'm doing NOTHING ELSE) So if anyone wants to Skype. Hint hint. The annoying part of it is that I have only found one place that sells recharge vouchers for over N$50. They only sell them for N$200 and most people I ask them for seem VERY confused. I've tried to develope a habit of buying at least a N$50 whenever I'm out.
I will be glad to return to the land of plenty in April if not for the mere fact that I've become too accustomed to having the Internet just at my fingertips.
Now, I've been going to a little shopping center around the corner from me. Near the DVD store and my local supermarket. There is a little cafe in there where you can get small snacks and good coffee or tea. There is also outside seating that they share with a fast food joint called Wimpy's. They are kind of like a cross between Denny's and Friendly's. The people there a nice and I've gone there a couple of times for coffee and a chance to upload some things to the Internet without taxing my connection too much. Once, when I first sat there, a guy came up to me and sat right down. He asked what I was doing, (reading on the kindle app) said his name was Peter and immediately asked for money. I stupidly gave him N$2 and he went on his way.
But fast forward to this past Friday - two days ago - and there was a different situation. I decided to get a coke at the Wimpy's and sat there soaking up the Internet. Peter came and sat down and immediately launched into a sob story about the tragedy at home. His grandfather died and he was the only bread winner at home. He then asked me for N$30 bucks. I said no. I didn't have it. He said well what about $30 USD - nearly 9 times the price! I got mad and told the waitress he was bothering me. She got a waiter who then proceeded to shoo him away for me. The manager asked if I could come inside to help her settle my bill, but she was really on the phone to security. They wouldn't let me go until Peter left. He was sitting just outside staring me down at this point. I ignored him.
M phone rang and a colleague from the embassy said she had some time to take me around town and show me spots where I could go work on other people's Internet without anyone bugging me. I was to meet her outside of the International Apotheke on the other side of the center. Not really very far away. The waitresses said she would escort me to the guards there and I could ain't there but she wouldn't leave me until Peter left. He didn't. He followed and started grabbing my bag and me, saying 'my brother, you promised me N$5!' I didn't. He wouldn't stop and so I made a scene. We were right in the local supermarket and it was pretty funny. Peter left cursing at me as he went.
My friend was there to pick me up, but her car was not yellow enough for the waitress who I had told I would be picked up by a yellow car. So she wouldn't let me go until my friend rolled down the window, said my name and I swore it was safe for me to go.
So, I'm not going to get upset about a local indecent person around here. I'm going to focus on the bright side that the waitresses like me and I feel safe with them around. I'm definitely enjoying my new place here at Utopia's Fresh n Wild cafe here. :) the coffee is better too.
Ian
I found a new cafe closer to my house than where I have been going. I think I'm going to give that other place a rest because of the story I'm just about to tell you.
My Internet at home is a USB stick that I buy vouchers for, punch in codes and get to use the Internet until the money runs out. I have had to severely modify my Internet use habits because the age of unlimited use with a very good bandwidth in America has spoiled me. There is no such thing as streaming, that'll eat up my credit in NO time as I found out my first week here when I wanted to finish the last episode of HUNG. It took 30 minutes to load and the credit was gone. (I can do Skype though, and voice calls through the Internet don't seem to be bad... As long as I'm doing NOTHING ELSE) So if anyone wants to Skype. Hint hint. The annoying part of it is that I have only found one place that sells recharge vouchers for over N$50. They only sell them for N$200 and most people I ask them for seem VERY confused. I've tried to develope a habit of buying at least a N$50 whenever I'm out.
I will be glad to return to the land of plenty in April if not for the mere fact that I've become too accustomed to having the Internet just at my fingertips.
Now, I've been going to a little shopping center around the corner from me. Near the DVD store and my local supermarket. There is a little cafe in there where you can get small snacks and good coffee or tea. There is also outside seating that they share with a fast food joint called Wimpy's. They are kind of like a cross between Denny's and Friendly's. The people there a nice and I've gone there a couple of times for coffee and a chance to upload some things to the Internet without taxing my connection too much. Once, when I first sat there, a guy came up to me and sat right down. He asked what I was doing, (reading on the kindle app) said his name was Peter and immediately asked for money. I stupidly gave him N$2 and he went on his way.
But fast forward to this past Friday - two days ago - and there was a different situation. I decided to get a coke at the Wimpy's and sat there soaking up the Internet. Peter came and sat down and immediately launched into a sob story about the tragedy at home. His grandfather died and he was the only bread winner at home. He then asked me for N$30 bucks. I said no. I didn't have it. He said well what about $30 USD - nearly 9 times the price! I got mad and told the waitress he was bothering me. She got a waiter who then proceeded to shoo him away for me. The manager asked if I could come inside to help her settle my bill, but she was really on the phone to security. They wouldn't let me go until Peter left. He was sitting just outside staring me down at this point. I ignored him.
M phone rang and a colleague from the embassy said she had some time to take me around town and show me spots where I could go work on other people's Internet without anyone bugging me. I was to meet her outside of the International Apotheke on the other side of the center. Not really very far away. The waitresses said she would escort me to the guards there and I could ain't there but she wouldn't leave me until Peter left. He didn't. He followed and started grabbing my bag and me, saying 'my brother, you promised me N$5!' I didn't. He wouldn't stop and so I made a scene. We were right in the local supermarket and it was pretty funny. Peter left cursing at me as he went.
My friend was there to pick me up, but her car was not yellow enough for the waitress who I had told I would be picked up by a yellow car. So she wouldn't let me go until my friend rolled down the window, said my name and I swore it was safe for me to go.
So, I'm not going to get upset about a local indecent person around here. I'm going to focus on the bright side that the waitresses like me and I feel safe with them around. I'm definitely enjoying my new place here at Utopia's Fresh n Wild cafe here. :) the coffee is better too.
Ian
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Teach a person to fish....
Sometimes in Africa, you get a lot of time to think about things in your life. I've had the pleasure of going 'back to Mozambique' this past weekend. I knew that I had to get out of 'white' Windhoek so I didn't go crazy starting at walls. So, I went to this place called Katutura, the location or township for Africans north west of the city.
Katutura (The place where we wish not to settle) is 10 kilometers outside of downtown Windhoek, but it could be another world. As I took a taxi into the location, I noticed immediately that the sights, smells and sounds changed and I was transported to Mozambique. I went out there to look at a project called KATU TOURS. The project received some funding from the office I'm working in now and I wanted to work out some of the details of the project in order to help with some of the social media marketing. Since, according to a recent CNN article, most Africans access the internet through cellular technology, it makes perfect sense to put your marketing there. Also, when you're a start-up with little capital, it works to your advantage.
KatuTours is run by Anna from Angola. She takes people from the city around Katutura to foster communication and some understanding. The ride is 10 kilometers and you stop at shops, the market and other spots throughout the location in order to get a better view. The best part for me was when we stopped at the Shebeen of Tate Buti. He's one of the biggest singers in Namibia and I'll be looking for a CD soon. While we were at the Shebeen, people were sharing with me beyond belief. The meat was delicious and kept coming, the beer was cold and the conversation was great. You need anything more?
What I like the most about this project, is that for N$350, I got 6 hours of a wonderful time with a woman who really cares about her community. She lives where she works and teaches others how to ride bicycles. Hopefully, she can get just a little bit of help because she is definitely learning how to fish.
Back to the beginning, I said in Africa you get alot of time. It shows you what is important.
More soon.
Ian
Katutura (The place where we wish not to settle) is 10 kilometers outside of downtown Windhoek, but it could be another world. As I took a taxi into the location, I noticed immediately that the sights, smells and sounds changed and I was transported to Mozambique. I went out there to look at a project called KATU TOURS. The project received some funding from the office I'm working in now and I wanted to work out some of the details of the project in order to help with some of the social media marketing. Since, according to a recent CNN article, most Africans access the internet through cellular technology, it makes perfect sense to put your marketing there. Also, when you're a start-up with little capital, it works to your advantage.
KatuTours is run by Anna from Angola. She takes people from the city around Katutura to foster communication and some understanding. The ride is 10 kilometers and you stop at shops, the market and other spots throughout the location in order to get a better view. The best part for me was when we stopped at the Shebeen of Tate Buti. He's one of the biggest singers in Namibia and I'll be looking for a CD soon. While we were at the Shebeen, people were sharing with me beyond belief. The meat was delicious and kept coming, the beer was cold and the conversation was great. You need anything more?
What I like the most about this project, is that for N$350, I got 6 hours of a wonderful time with a woman who really cares about her community. She lives where she works and teaches others how to ride bicycles. Hopefully, she can get just a little bit of help because she is definitely learning how to fish.
Back to the beginning, I said in Africa you get alot of time. It shows you what is important.
More soon.
Ian
 |
| A photo of me with Anna |
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
And so it begins...
Malaria Dreams can be good and can be bad. Mine have tended to be funny. I'm grateful for that aspect because I've heard of some that are positively terrifying, mine not so much. They always tend to involve different people in my life in rather strange ways. I have the following book at home in Vermont and will be reading it AS SOON as I get home. I'm curious what made this book so good - or so I've heard.
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| They've started. |
My sleep schedule requires me to wake up at 5:30. I know you can laugh all you want, but for the past year plus, I haven't been awake before 7 unless I was going somewhere and if I did, I would usually be back to sleep within the hour. :) Last night was weird. I couldn't fall asleep right away because the altitude difference (300 feet to over 5,000 feet) has made the jet lag last longer than I'm used to. That and my absolute willingness to read and or watch EVERYTHING might lead to some craziness. Case in point tonight is a movie that, well, I wouldn't watch in America. I doubt I would watch it here if I were living with someone.
So, I finally got to sleep around 11:30 and got a good nights sleep until about 4:30. I had to get up because the alarm went off, but I was able to go back to sleep. That's where the dream began. Malaria dreams (I'm not even taking the medicine yet, Windhoek is Malaria free) for me tend to be in HD and this one was. The entire SIT Admissions team had started up a little tuck shop/bodega here in Klein Windhoek. They had to run the entire shop but for some reason, even though Namibia is an English speaking country, English wasn't useful in the dream. I was speaking Afrikaans and helping them run the shop. The thing that makes this dream a Malaria Dream for me, is that the colors of the Namibian currency in the till was in TECHNICOLOR. Also, I woke up before the dream could be resolved.
If dreams are starting and I don't have to take the medication until I head up north, what's it going to be like there?
More soon.
Monday, February 11, 2013
Hello from the Windy Corner
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| Christuskirche & the as-yet-to-be-opened Independence Museum brought to you by the DPRK. |
I am writing to you from //AE //GAMS. A place you and I know as Windhoek. There is a small shopping center here in Klein Windhoek with that name.
It reads
Klein //AE //GAMS Mall.
There are two clicks in there. They kind of sound like a horse call out the side of the mouth. There are 3 or 4 different languages in that title alone, depending on who you ask. Others will say it is only one ie Namibian English - which is proving to be an interesting version of English to master. I know I definitely can't speak it, I don't know if I will be able to after 3 months, but I'm finding it easier to understand. I think if I tried to speak like a Namibian though, it would come out VERY weird.
Positives today
Did it all by myself
everyone is so friendly
retracing some old steps from 4 years ago.
getting people to talk with me by saying just
hawayu!
More Soon.
Ian
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